Peeling – secrets of the composition and execution features

Peeling of the skin of the arms or legs is not that widespread in beauty salons. But thanks to her, the skin becomes silky and soft, eliminates dryness and exfoliation, even color. What other secrets and opportunities fraught with peeling?

Peeling, scrubbing, exfoliation is the designation of the same process of exfoliation of dead cells of the epidermis. In the depth of its impact peeling can be surface, medium and deep. Most of scrubs for regular care of a skin of the hands, feet and body have a surface and median peeling.

What exactly after peeling the skin is better looks and to the touch – it is known to any woman who at least once in life tried to make peeling in the salon or at home. Less understanding and more mistrust in the eyes of our customers ‘ cause things like “scrub moisturizes the skin, has an antioxidant who-action” or, for example, rejuvenates, stimulates collagen, improves elasticity”, and so on, Despite widespread means for peeling, their primary purpose of an average customer understands only as a skin resurfacing, tangible giving smoothness and silkiness, which by default is perceived by us as a sign of a healthy and young skin. However, purposes and opportunities of peeling much more. The difference composition scrubs can be fundamental to achieve the effect radiance or total removal of very rough areas. Correctly selected scrub or incorrect technique application can cause at best frustration masters, and at worst skin irritation client, even more dryness and stretching instead of the promised rejuvenation, regeneration and recovery.

So, the purpose of peeling – exfoliating dead skin layer, i.e., the destruction of viable dead cells. As a result of peeling of the surface are young skin layers, respectively, improves its appearance and texture. Exfoliation also means purification and open the pores of the skin, especially needed for effective learning nourishing and hydrating substances of masks and serums. Next, you need to understand that peels from the field of nail service can present different methods exfoliation: mechanical and chemical peeling.

Abrasive peeling

Mechanical peeling – exfoliating dead skin layers due to the friction of abrasive particles. It is considered that this type of peeling affects only the surface of the epithelium. Cosmetic manufacturers use abrasive particles of different structure and origin. The basis of body scrubs often put sea sand, pumice, salt, sugar, crushed bones of apricot and nut-shell (walnuts and almonds), a loofah, algae, clay, coral crumb and bamboo powder, as well as microscopic plastic beads. They all belong to different groups of abrasive particles, require the basis of the partner and unique approach to application. The principal is the difference in solubility or insolubility of abrasive particles, as it determines the trauma of scrub and the method of its use.

Sea salt, sugar – soluble solid particles. The large size of particles of these scrubs should not frighten the wizard. Sharp crystals of salt and sugar is always tempered fatty cream or oil-based scrub, which acts as a protective cushion, nourishing and softening the skin. Big sugar or salt scrub at first glance seem rude and impossible to apply on dry, thin or sensitive skin. Looking at this abrasive, masters constantly being put him on pedicure for removing dry and thickened skin of the feet. However, such scrubs practically useless for removal of corns. Large abrasive, softened nutritional basis, more acts as massage ball, because the friction on major scrub promotes blood flow to the skin and brings them update. The client receives relaxation from micro-massage, the skin is exposed, and the nutritional basis for the scrub well absorbed. You may find that after peeling the skin does not need additional applying a cream or lotion.

Important! The only correct way to use large salt and sugar scrubs is moisturize skin of the hands, feet or body. Water partially dissolves abrasive scrub, making it less traumatic to the skin and helps to penetrate into the deeper layers for effective peeling. The ratio of abrasive to the base could be 2:1.

The beads, sand, coral crushed pumice, loofah, crushed bones of nuts – soft and solid insoluble particles. As with the previous type of abrasive, they require a softening of nutrients or soap base, which protects the skin from excessive damage and facilitate cleaning. Despite its small size, abrasive particles of insoluble and therefore dangerous – time peeling should be strictly limited. It is fine insoluble peels can damage with prolonged rubbing thin, sensitive or swollen skin of the hands and feet. At the same time insoluble scrub, reinforced traditional float pedicure, demonstrates excellent results of removal of rough areas of the foot. The mechanical effect of solid particles ruthlessly exfoliates the skin, promotes the flow of blood and process activation of self-healing of the skin. The ratio of abrasive to the base can be 1:2 or 1:3.

Clay, minerals, bamboo powder – prorastaniya and completely soluble particles for updating the skin. These components are “elite” peelings not only because of its ultra – gentle influence, but because of the content of a large number of good for the skin bioactive substances, silicon, amino acids, vitamins and microelements. At this stage mechanical peeling really gets properties of the drug that can fully restore biological functions of the skin, moisturize it and tone, stimulate the synthesis of collagen, increase elasticity and have antioxidant support. The most gentle abrasives this group are combined with the basics of oil and nourishing creams to create a pasty peelings or scrubs-gommage. Peelings this category are designed to Polish and to bleach the skin, making it perfectly soft and velvety. The ratio of abrasive to the base can be 1:4 or 5.


Peeling with fruit acids

Chemical peeling – skin treatment alpha (ANA) and betagidroksilazy lots (VNA) with subsequent use-losowanie. Oxyacids more known under the name of “fruit”. The source of the fruit acids : synthesis and plant extracts. Good penetration ability fruit acids allows them to easily separate the dead cells and clean the skin without affecting healthy cells, and opposite – supporting and supplying nutrition. Fruit acid is a very popular ingredient for cosmetic, since the AHA and BHA have low annoying ability. In addition, by the degree of penetration peeling with fruit acids is deeper in comparison with the influence of abrasives and therefore demonstrates a more lasting effect. AHA acids (glycolic, lactic, tartaric, lemon, and so on) is recommended for very dry peeling, photopositions and thickened skin. VNA-acid (salicylic), in turn, regulates the sebaceous glands, effectively cleaning the ducts clogged dead cells. Regular use of fruit acids can really increase the natural moisture level. Horny scales of our skin is not able to absorb from the environment moisture and hold it. This ability has complex hygroscopic molecules called Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) – natural moisturizing factor. Molecules NMF as a sponge to absorb and retain moisture. Concentration NMF very high for young skin cells, in old cells NMF degrades, dehydration occurs epidermis. Peeling with fruit acids is a kind of skin burns, and the resulting stress she meets a reinforced division of cells in the basal layer and fast peeling the skin flakes, i.e. the active renewal of epidermis. Thus, in the skin improves active moisturizing factor. In addition to improvements NMF stress from chemical peeling stimulates the skin to turn his defense systems and accelerate recovery. Activates the synthesis of vital molecules of glycosaminoglycans and collagen. As a result of chemical peeling the skin becomes more elastic, there is a smoothing of fine lines and substantial improvement in appearance.

The concentration of fruit acids in cosmetics for skin care can be from 1% to 5%. Often scrubs for care of skin of hands, legs and body combined composed of both types of peeling – abrasives and complexes of fruit acids, thus providing updates impact at all levels.
Unlike abrasive particles, complex AFIA-acids can be included not only in the composition of scrub, but added to the formula creams and lotions for additional support skin and constant updates. Masters, practicing Spa treatment, sometimes unpleasantly surprised by the interesting effect: soaked hands or feet client, carefully scrapiron skin, go to massage cream or lotion… Literally after soaking under the master’s hands “creep” grey pellets, as if the skin of the customer rolls down the dirt. But there was skin disinfection and cleaning soaking, and peeling too. “Pollution” of the client’s skin at this stage is excluded. Cream spoiled? The fact that the complex of fruit acids, included in a moisturizing cream or lotion may potentiate the effect of cleansing the skin, and at the stage of final massage remains of dead cells finally leave the client, leaving a perfectly smooth and moist skin.

Constraints and opportunities

Expanding a bit possibilities and methods of peelings, you should think about the limitations and contraindications for this procedure. Any manipulation of the skin assume its integrity and relative health. Peeling is not recommended for damaged and inflamed skin, including as a result of chronic diseases of the skin (eczema, psoriasis), bacterial or fungal infection. After depilation and before peeling it is necessary to give the skin from 2 to 4 days for rehabilitation, otherwise we risk unpleasant irritation and redness of the skin. Varicose veins and excessive swelling of extremities – a reason to limit the active mechanical peeling and make your choice in favor of a very mild abrasive or a chemical peel. Accepted between facial peeling for normal to oily skin are 5-7 days and for very dry and sensitive skin – 7-12 days.
And finally: choosing scrub work, it is important to understand its structure and the effect of the application receiving advice from a representative of cosmetics or technologist selling company. Most of the trademarks of professional cosmetics Spa-care offer customers probes peelings and seminars. He is to abandon the opportunity to learn more about the product and its composition. First of all, in order to perform the specialist makes sensitivity test product and find out whether scrub expectations wizard and how has the potential for future enjoyment of the client.

Svetlana curly, Director of training centre “Country Manicure®”

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